New Windows Can Save You Money on Utility Bills!

Most people think of curb appeal as roofing, siding, and landscape, but new window installation offers a great opportunity to upgrade your home in style and resale value. Not to mention, with nearly 40 percent of central heating lost through windows and doors, quality window replacement with proper insulation ensures substantial savings on utility bills.
Another reason to replace your windows is that today's replacement windows also deliver large savings in maintenance costs and convenience, as newer windows don't require the constant upkeep of scraping, replacing putty and new paint.
Window salespeople make many claims about energy savings. How true are these claims? Good quality windows, installed properly, can yield substantial energy savings. How much you save depends on the type of window you choose and the type and condition of the windows you are replacing.
In the average home, 38 percent of the heat loss is through windows and doors. If your home has drafty single-pane windows or single-pane aluminum sliders, the heat loss from windows may be as much as 50 percent. The poorer the performance of your old windows, the more dramatic the savings and the sooner energy savings alone will cover the cost of your new window investment.

Have any questions, post some comments or call us: 1-800-368-9556

Energy Efficient Windows

Energy Efficient Windows | How To Save Yourself Some Cash

There are few home improvements you can undertake that will do more to improve the energy efficiency of your home than replacing old windows with energy efficient windows. In order to get the most out of your new energy saving windows, it's important to educate yourself on the technology that makes these windows such a wise purchase.
Energy Efficient Window Basics

it’s no mystery why a new energy saving window is such a huge improvement over the windows of old. A host of new technology has been incorporated into their construction, making them more efficient in a number of ways.

•Edge Spacers—lets start simple. One of the most inefficient aspects of old windows was the edge spacers that held the panes of glass apart. Aluminum was the most widely used material, and there are few metals that conduct heat and cold more efficiently than aluminum. New edge spacers made from insulated steel, butyl rubber, silicone foam, and vinyl, make a huge, if unseen, difference when it comes window efficiency.
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• Glazing—Nothing does more when it comes to an energy efficient window than glazing. Glazing simply refers to the practice of using multiple panes of glass in a window to create a thermal barrier between the climates inside and outside your home. Generally, the more glazing you have, the better, and the thicker the glazing (i.e. the wider the space between the panes of glass and plastic), the more efficient your energy saving window is going to be.

• Glass Fill—besides glazing and thermal barriers, filling the space between glass panes can make a difference as well. Multiple paned windows are high-tech contraptions, and the area between the panes is so well sealed that it can be filled with a less conductive gas than regular air. Argon is the most popular gas used as fill to increase the energy saving properties of an energy efficient window, though there are other options to choose from.

• Low e-coating—The invention, and application, of low e-coatings transformed the efficiency of windows almost overnight. A low e-coating is simply a clear coating applied to the glass that lets in light, but keeps radiant heat in. Low e-coatings come in different grades, so be sure to get the best energy efficient window for your climate. A coating perfect for Nome, Alaska, is going to turn your house into a tinderbox if you live on the Gulf Coast.
Energy Efficient Windows are Economical and Environmental

An energy efficient window is one of the most effective weapons we have when it comes to creating more energy efficient living spaces. That means more money in your pocketbook with energy savings, and doing some good for the environment at the same time. Talk to a window installer or contractor about choosing the right window, and window options, for your home and situation.

Understanding Thermal Window Replacement Terms

U Factor Rating

An organization called the National Fenestration Ratings Council (NFRC) has developed a rating system based on the U factor. The U factor is the rating most homeowners look at first and for good reason. This rating measures the heat loss that occurs through the window. Most homeowners choose to install thermal replacement windows because of the heat loss that occurs in the winter with their old windows. Most windows now carry this rating so it's becoming easy to make comparisons. Generally speaking, windows all have a U factor between 1.3 and .2, and the lower the number, the better.
Window Type U Factor Ratings

• Old metal casement window 1.3
• Good quality single-pane window 1.0
• Good single-pane with storm window .6
• Double-pane with low-E glass .4
• Triple-pane with low-E glass .25


Air Leakage:
This rating measures how much outside air will infiltrate through your window installation. Fixed and awning style windows are usually the best. The range is typically between .1 and .3, and the lower the number, the better.
Solar Heat Gain Coefficient: Naturally, this is the exact opposite of the U factor. It measures the windows heat gain during the summer months. It's expressed as a number between 0 and 1 and, again, the lower the number, the better.
Condensation Resistance:
This rating measures the window's ability to resist the formation of condensation. As ventilation and insulation continues to be geared more toward energy-efficiency, condensation, especially on windows, is becoming more and more of an issue in homes—in this case, the higher the number, the better.
Visible Transmittance:
This window rating has more to do with homeowner preference than superior performance. VT measures the amount of light that is allowed to pass through the window. The higher the number, the more daylight you can expect in your home

The ins and outs of condensation

This page gives an overview of some of the causes of condensation and some helpful hints to relieve the situation. Please keep in mind that the window is not the cause of the problem; humidity is. There's quite a bit of information regarding condensation, but it's not really a topic that you can inform in brief.

What is condensation?
Condensation is the fog that is evident on the glass of your windows. This is the same fog that appears on the outside of a cold glass during the summer. Condensation is actually the result of high humidity levels in your home. It generally appears as moisture or ice on the interior lite of glass on your windows. The problem is more prevalent on the glass of your windows because the surface condenses more visibly. This means that the glass has the lowest temperature of any visible surface in your home. It needs to be noted that if moisture is visible here, it could be happening elsewhere as well. Problems such as peeling paint, rotting wood, mildew or moisture spots are typical symptoms of condensation.

We have compiled some possible solutions for your condensation problems. Please use your judgment as to which solutions may apply to your home. Remember, the windows are not the cause of condensation; they are simply an indicator of a larger problem.

Humidity
Humidity is the amount of moisture in the air. It may come from various sources. Your home needs a certain amount of moisture, but deciding how much you need is a critical decision.

The following chart will help you with the moisture level of your home; reducing humidity while maintaining comfort. The chart is based on the inside relative humidity for a 70° indoor temperature.

Moisture
As stated before, moisture may come from a variety of sources. We have compiled various activities and how much moisture a family of four contributes to their living environment.

• Normal Breathing ---1/2 pints per hour
• Cooking (3 meals a day) --- 4 to 5 pints per day
• Showering --- 1/2 pint each
• Plants --- 1 pint per day/per plant

Average daily living activities can contribute more than 18 gallons of water per week for an average family of four. As you can see, normal activities that you take for granted can greatly contribute to the humidity levels in your home.

It's Cause
The cause of the condensation is extreme moisture in the air. When warm air meets a cooler surface, it condenses. This creates the visible moisture you see on the surface of your windows. Condensation also occurs when the flow of warm air is restricted from reaching window surfaces.

Too Much Humidity
If there is moisture on your windows, it is important to check your entire home. Problem areas could reveal themselves as damp spots on ceilings and walls. The end result could be the moisture passing through the walls, insulation, and to the exterior walls causing peeling or blistering paint. This could eventually cause rotting of the frame of the house if left untreated.

Location & Time
Some regions are more prevalent to condensation than others. Generally areas that reach 35° Fahrenheit or below in the winter months are more susceptible to condensation.

Interior condensation is more likely in the winter months. This happens when moisture in the air contacts a surface whose temperature is lower than the dew point (the temperature in which air manufactures dew).

Exterior surface condensation usually occurs on sultry, humid summer days. An example would be that moisture forms on the outside of a window in the summer when an air conditioner is being used in the home. This creates a surface temperature of the glass below the dew point.

New Home vs. Old Home
You tend to see less condensation in older homes. People were not so concerned about humidity levels or energy efficiency of a home years ago.

Newer homes are manufactured more air tight. This leaves the moisture trapped or locked in the home. This means that newer homes leave no outlet for the humidity to escape unless steps have been taken to vent the moisture during construction.

Measuring Humidity
Although there are scientific measures to determine the humidity levels in your home, most homeowners do not have access to such means. An easier way for the average person to monitor humidity is to watch for the obvious signs in your residence. When you see the start of condensation on your windows, this is a sure sign that your humidity is reaching a level that could be too high.

Remember that watching the humidity level on the news has no bearing on the levels in your home. This is a humidity reading for the humidity in the air outside.

Reducing Humidity
There are some steps that you, as a homeowner, can take to reduce your indoor humidity level. One way is to make sure that all appliances requiring a vent are vented properly. This includes items such as clothes’ dryers, gas heaters and exhaust fans. Exhaust fans are an excellent way to increase the air flow and reduce humidity if installed correctly. Areas that would profit most would be bathrooms and kitchens.

Another option is to make sure that your home is properly vented. There are a couple of ways to achieve this desired effect. One solution for more severe cases would be to open a window in each room for a short period of time. This is a very temporary solution.

A more permanent solution would be to make sure that all areas such as attics and crawl spaces have been vented. Many people cover attic vents or louvers for the winter thinking that they are keeping cold air out- not realizing that they are also keeping in moisture. For more specifics on these and other ideas, we recommend a heating and ventilation contractor or other specialists.

Types of Windows
Some types of windows are more likely to condensate such as bow or bay type window units. These windows are more exposed to the environment, and therefore, may be somewhat cooler in temperature. Another consideration is the lack of air movement within a bow or bay unit. Due to the shape of the unit, the air flow is somewhat restricted. One solution to this problem is to make sure that the unit is properly insulated upon installation. Contact your contractor or insulation specialist for further details.

The other solution is promoting air circulation by the use of a fan. This will keep the air circulating in the unit and the room moving.

Coverings
Another concern might be the type of window coverings that are being used. Remember that just as the windows are not the cause of condensation, neither are the curtains nor the blinds. They are merely another contributing factor to a condensation problem. Again, restricting the air flow to your windows can contribute to a possible condensation problem. The condensation is more likely to occur when window coverings are too tight to the windows- constricting the flow of warmer air.

Temporary
Your condensation problem may be only a temporary situation. Below, we have outlined three examples of this.

The first is when a new home is built. A great deal of moisture is released from the building materials such as wood or plaster. During the winter months, the moisture will be discharged in to your home. This circumstance usually occurs only during the initial heating season.

The second is during the initial heating months of the winter. This is simply humidity stored in your home. This symptom should gradually dissipate during the season.

The third is a severe, rapid change in the temperature over a short period of time during the winter.

Windows
Just as the windows did not create the condensation, there is little you can do to the windows to stop the problem. Like stated above, it could be a sign of a much larger problem. Remember- the glass in your windows is just an indicator.

However, adding a good storm sash that provides an escape for moisture or changing the glass to a double paned unit will increase the temperature of the inside lite of glass, therefore decreasing the chance of condensation. Do not forget that other parts of the home may also have the same problem, just not as visible or obvious.

New Construction
When planning your new home, here are some helpful suggestions that should be considered;

• Choose a wood window instead of a metal unit. Metal is a much poorer insulator than a wood product.
• Make sure that all attics or concealed spaces are properly ventilated.
• Make sure that all appliances (such as dryers or exhaust fans) are properly ducted, sealed and vented to the exterior of the home. Gas appliances should be a major concern. Water vapor is one of the by-products of gas combustion.
• Make sure that your contractor has considered the most appropriate way to keep soil moisture from permeating the basement or foundation.
• Proper insulation, goes without saying, is one of the most valuable tools in any energy efficient residence. But many people often forget their water pipes and cold air ducts. Any pipes (such as cold water pipes) or ducts that condensates in the warmer months of the year should be covered.
• This should be done with an insulation that has an exterior vapor barrier.

Why, if my old windows did not have condensation, do my new windows have it now?

One of the reasons you probably replaced your old windows was because they were drafty, and when the wind wasn’t blowing in, those slight cracks allowed the excess humidity that is in your house to escape. With the new windows the humidity is unable to escape; therefore it is showing itself on the glass. This is your first indication that you have too much humidity in your home.

Summary
We hope that this has been helpful in your quest for the answers to your condensation questions.

If you have tried the suggestions listed on the previous pages such as proper ventilation and reduction of humidity levels in your home and have been unsuccessful, contact a professional heating contractor about other humidity reducing ideas.

This is a general overview of the condensation problem and may not apply to every person or situation. The main thing to remember is that condensation is high humidity levels in your home- not bad windows.

Is your patio door hard to roll or doesn't roll at all?

The first thing you need to do is remove the head stop at the top of the unit on the inside. This will have about six to eight screws that hold it on. Once you remove this the door panel will tilt to the inside. Becareful some panels are very heavy and will require two people to remove the panel. Next; you want to lay the panel down on its side and remove the rollers. There are two types of rollers one has two screws that hold it on and the other is pressed in to the bottom of the panel. If you have the pressed in type, take a screwdriver and stick it in behind the roller and pry out. Then just install the new roller and reverse the process of putting the panel back in the opening.

You should also clean out all the tracks, before reinstalling the panel, this will assure that every thing is clean and clear of dust and dirt, so the new rollers won’t stick.

Have any questions, post some comments or call us: 1-800-368-9556

Spring Home Tune-up List.

Well it seems it's about that time you start preparing your home for another beautiful summer. I know it's a hassle doing this every year, but a single week of spring tune-up every year can save you thousands on top of thousands of dollars. So in the long run you save money and improve the life span of your humble dwelling. Not so bad after all? Here's a little list of a couple things you should do:

Windows & Doors

1. Walk around the house check all the windows. (to make sure the are operating well)
2. Do the same thing with all the doors.
3. Compose a list of the windows and/or doors that are not functioning correctly.
4. Now, determine the problem and how to fix it.
5. Upgrade to modern Low-E windows if you haven't yet. (This is so important: it can save you 30%-40% on your heating bill!)
6. Look around all windows, doors, vents, and utility line entrances, if needed caulk them.
   

Roofing & Siding

1. Clean your gutters, also make sure your downspouts are securely attached.
2. Make sure there is no leaking from your roof.
3. Remove any trees that are touching your house or roof.
4. Check to see if the water sealing on your brick is still good.
5. Are there damaged bricks to be replaced?
6. Does your siding or trim need to be repainted? (Check often, rotted framing is BAD!)
   

Electrical & Plumbing

1. Check your outdoor receptacles, make sure there water tight.
2. Replace any of your light bulbs that are out or broken.
3. Test your water supply. (even if you think it's fine, annual testing is a must!)
4. Insulate your water heater.
5. Check your sump pump and make sure it works right. (battery back-up is a good idea)
6. Fix any leaky valves or slow drips.
7. Septic tank needs to be check and/or pump depending on it's size and use (1-5 years is normal)
   

Does Your Window Crank Hard Or Not Open?

The first thing you need to do is check the outside of your window. you need to look at the reveal(this is the space around where the sash closes into the frame). If you have a brick home you may have "Brick Pinch". This is were the house has settled and the brick is pushing on a side of the sash. This can only be fixed by cutting the brick along the side of the pinched sash. This can be very complicated, so i would recommend hiring a brick mason. If you don't have a brick home this could just be a dry, non-lubricated track. I suggest cleaning and lubricating the track with a high grade silicone release spray, This will make your windows move more freely and could prolong the life of the hardware and operating part of your window.

Have any questions, post some comments or call us: 1-800-368-9556

We Are Up!!!!!!!

Well we've been working on getting this up for some time now. I am happy to announce we are live! Well not quite I still have to link to the site and have the site link to this.....but we are as close as ever!